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Julie_DeGuia
01-28-2008, 08:56 AM
Several Questions.....

Anyone use WHCC for print competition prints? I see they now have a seperate section for Competition Prints with the only two choices being "glossy" or "metallic." Are these the only two papers you can enter, or is matte/lustre OK? I saw an older thread from last year about WHCC not adjusting output for competition prints so will I have to do this (make the file darker) before sending the file in?

Any other tips for printing?

Thanks,
Julie

Jane_Lydick_Staid
01-28-2008, 11:25 AM
Julie,

You can enter any paper you want to. You just cant have anything on the surface and you need to use the mounting thickness guidelines. Glossy holds up best under the lights. Metallic works well for some images, not so well for others.

Get a test 8x10 from the lab (tell them its a preliminary competition print) on both papers and go with what works best.

As for the output density, you need to work on that yourself. The images are viewed under f 16 at 100 iso (I'm sure I will be corrected if I'm wrong) so they need to be quite deep.

Good luck

D._Craig_Flory
01-28-2008, 02:46 PM
Hi Julie;

I never pay for a "competition" print quality. I order a machine print. I pay more for the mounting on black core gatorfoam than I do for the 16X20 print. I agree about 1st getting an 8x10 of each ... that's what I do. (un mounted) Then I adjust my digital files before uploading my final 16X20 files.

Heather_L._Smith
01-28-2008, 02:59 PM
You don't want to enter a matte print if you can help it... under competition lights, you definitely want something glossy. If it's printed on matte (or even lustre for that matter), it can appear dull under the strong judging lights.

Dave_Cisco
01-28-2008, 04:24 PM
Hi Julie;

I never pay for a "competition" print quality. I order a machine print. I pay more for the mounting on black core gatorfoam than I do for the 16X20 print. I agree about 1st getting an 8x10 of each ... that's what I do. (un mounted) Then I adjust my digital files before uploading my final 16X20 files.

You are more experienced than most and you can see from an 8x10 what density changes are needed. Most newbies don't have that insight. Yes, I know what comp images cost...it's part of the dues you pay to play the game.:D

PS,
Cut your costs by mounting on double-weight mountboard, then blacken edges with a BIG black marker.

Jane_Lydick_Staid
01-28-2008, 04:34 PM
When I shot film, I had my own lab. So every competition season I ordered a box of 16x20 F surface paper and holed myself up in the darkroom dodging burning mounting and retouching. I printed all of my Master's images and many for other people.

I dont miss the headache I got from the adhesive fumes or the PEC 12 used to get the excess magic marker on the edge when it slipped.

Now I outsource to the lab for alot less than what I thought I would end up spending and everything comes back perfect!

Dave_Cisco
01-28-2008, 04:44 PM
..the PEC 12 used to get the excess magic marker on the edge when it slipped.



That brings back such bad memories.........I learned what the big boys meant when they said "work from the backside of the print". If you slip, all you do is customize the back.:D :D :D

Jane_Lydick_Staid
01-28-2008, 05:33 PM
Dave,

I used to step mount all of my competition prints. Once I printed and retouched the image and mounted it onto a piece of oaktag spray painted gold and sealed with whatever sealant I had around. Then I mounted a piece of black paper onto the double size board. Then I had to trim the gold oaktag and mount that onto the board. Fingerprints everywhere.

Geez I dont miss it.

Cheri_MacCallum
01-28-2008, 05:47 PM
My first competition prints were for negative retouching. I would send in a "before" 8x10 along with the retouched negative and ppa would print and mount it. That way they could make sure that the prints weren't worked on after the fact. When I started entering photographic competition I had a lab print them and was never happy. I started printing them myself and have never looked back. The last few comps, I've printed on Epson Luster and they look great. So while gloss is good it isn't really the "only" finish. I do recommend staying away from matte finishes. You can get away with matte for higher key images but lower key goes "dead" under the lights.

Cindi_K_McDaniel
01-28-2008, 05:59 PM
Thanks Cheri, I had wondered about printing my own images on my 4800 instead of sending them to a lab. Lexjet actually recently released a new paper that works great for prints with more of a gloss finish. I've got some on order and can hardly wait to try it!

May I ask where you guys get your foam core? Also, does it have a self stick adhesive options these days or will I need to become educated on the actual mounting process? I use self still boards for all my client prints and it works very well, but I figure I'll need to change this for comp! Let me know your thoughts PLEASE!

Cheri_MacCallum
01-28-2008, 06:09 PM
I use the 1/4" black core gator foam, I get it from a local lab. It is the peel and stick adhesive.